If there’s one thing Dockers Waterside doesn’t do, it’s subtlety.

Perched on the edge of the Quogue marina like a Gatsby-era yacht club, it’s the kind of place where the summer breeze carries the scent of truffle oil and sunglasses are as essential as salt and pepper.

Let’s begin with the obvious: the view. Dockers nails the Hamptons waterfront vibe without trying too hard.

Boats bob in the bay and sunsets are Instagram perfection.

Now, onto the food.

We started with a dozen local oysters and although pricey ($5 a piece) they were delicious with a lovely mignonette and cocktail sauce. We requested horseradish which was the perfect finishing touch.

The Avocado Chopped Salad was wonderful comprised of a generous amount of avocado, Garganzola cheese, fresh tomatoes and a hard boiled egg over Romaine lettuce with crispy bacon on the side ($28).

I ordered fresh Mussels in a tasty Prosecco butter herb sauce with Giganta beans, artichoke hearts, shallots, cured tomatoes served with a hunk of bread. The mussels were sweet and plump ($39).

My husband opted for the Sushi Bowl with fresh tuna and salmon, avocado, edamame on top of jasmine rice. He enjoyed every bite ($33).

We stayed away from the expensive entrees. The fish and lobster were overpriced.

The Sidewinder French Fries were hot and crispy and a lovely treat ($14).

Seafood dominates the menu, as it should, but Dockers tosses in enough steak, chicken and pasta to please everyone.

Our server was efficient and quite honest with her food opinions which we appreciated. Even with the place buzzing, the staff manages to keep things afloat with a smile.

The wine list is dependable, the cocktails are strong, and the crowd is exactly what you would expect. A blend of local regulars and seasonal homeowners.

In short, Dockers Waterside is not trying to reinvent the wheel. It’s serving seafood by the water, with a splash of flair and a touch of decadence.

Charming, picturesque Quogue was a real surprise. I never knew it was so ritzy.

Make the drive to Quogue from New York City without having to travel deep into the Hamptons.

Dockers is an ideal spot for a Rose infused summer lunch.

Next time, I think I will skip the formal dining and reservation game and order from the food truck on the grounds.

The picnic tables surrounding the truck all have water views. The menu is extensive. There is also an adjacent cocktail bar.

Come for the view. Stay for the delightful seafood and ocean breeze.

Dockers Waterside Marina & Restaurant 92 Dune Road East Quogue, New York Open Monday 5-9pm, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday 12–9 pm, Friday 12–10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am-9pm. Reservations on Resy.