Missing the New York City dining experience?

The brand new Polo Room in Palm Beach, Florida will fulfill all your cosmopolitan, upscale dining desires.

Located in an old-school neighborhood in Palm Beach, renowned polo player and new Polo Room owner, Nachos Figueras, has made the switch from horses to hospitality.

The Polo Room is all about dark woods and a dimly lite interior which gives off a sexy, sophisticated vibe.

The restaurant, abounding in equestrian framed photos, demurely features a continental menu highlighting premium seafood and meats, infused with owner Nacho Figueras Argentine heritage combined with co-owner and restaurateur Thierry Beaud’s hospitality background.

Beaud was part of the team behind PB Catch, the seafood and raw-bar mecca that enjoyed a 14-year run at the same address which is the new home of the Polo Room.

The restaurant is polished without being pretentious, elegant without making you feel as though you have dressed incorrectly even though the crowd reeks of big bucks.

Let’s start where all good meals should with martinis with blue cheese olives ($23).

But first, one must unharness the cloth napkin which is restrained by a lookalike silver Gucci horsebit.

Now you can proceed to elegantly devour the pan of warm, impossibly flaky croissants smothered with Vermont butter. Both are entirely unconcerned with anyone’s carb boundaries. It is immediately understood that restraint is not the evening’s theme ($10).

The oysters, Kumamoto and Kusshi, were pristine, bright, sweet, plump and beautifully accompanied by a champagne vinaigrette and cocktail sauce (4 oysters $18).

A Caesar Salad arrived next, properly composed, chilled and dressed, elevated by cream cheese croutons which are unexpected, slightly decadent, and reminiscent of NYC’s Corner Store ($22).

The Big Eye Tuna Tartare was immaculate, fresh, and elegant, resting on a thin layer of creamy avocado accented by a ponzu vinaigrette accompanied by crunchy potato chips ($29).

And then the evening’s highlight, the Caviar Pasta. Silky, luxurious, and unapologetically indulgent. The sort of dish that makes you pause after the first bite and reconsider every uninspired pasta dish you have ever tolerated. Rich, but beautifully balanced, it manages to feel celebratory without crossing into excess ($65).

Service was adequate although sitting at the oyster bar proved to be a challenging, head twisting exercise when communicating with the server. We did love the towering oyster bar head honcho who I traded South Florida restaurant hits and misses with.

The highly touted Key Lime Pie was unimpressive, lacking a sublime lime flavor and crunchy graham cracker crust. Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami Beach beats it by a mile ($20).

What makes The Polo Room particularly appealing is its composure. It delivers Palm Beach urbanity without the exhausting pageantry sometimes mistaken for luxury. No one is trying too hard, which is precisely why it works.

It is a comfortably appealing restaurant. I loved the fact that empowered women sat at the oyster bar, dining alone on juicy steaks which abound on the menu, sipping oversized martinis.

You leave the Polo Room feeling indulged, but not overdone, already plotting a return perhaps at the regular bar or the intimate dining room, but not at the outside tables as you miss out on the sophisticated  indoor atmosphere.

The Polo Room showcases the art of civilized indulgence.

The Polo Room 251 Sunrise Avenue Palm Beach, Florida. Open Tuesday-Sunday 5pm to Midnight. Valet and street parking. Reservations on OpenTable.com.