Sophisticated yet understated.

Elegantly situated on a corner in cobblestoned Tribeca, Brasserie Fouquet’s New York provides a lovely evening out.

Fouquet’s conspires to make you feel as though you have wandered into a particularly glamorous corner of Paris and somehow forgotten you are in Manhattan.

The dining room and attractive bar area are plush, comfortable, refined, but never stuffy with a menu overseen by super chef Pierre Gagnaire.

That was our experience at Brasserie Fouquet’s, tucked inside the elegant 5-star hotel Fouquet’s New York, part of the Hotels Barriere group.

The restaurant pays homage to the legendary Paris institution while bringing a distinctly New York energy to the experience.

The evening started with something increasingly rare in modern dining, a proper bread basket.

Not a lonely slice of artisanal bread served with a lecture about fermentation.

An actual basket, warm, generous, and accompanied by substantial butter and delightful Comté-infused popovers that immediately signaled we were in capable hands.

The charming sommelier, Marin Nadalin, guided us toward a wonderful Pinot Noir that paired beautifully with the meal. A great sommelier doesn’t just pour wine, they quietly elevate the entire evening. Marin accomplished that effortlessly.

The classic Burgundy Escargot was everything one hopes escargot will be, rich, garlicky, and utterly unapologetic, accompanied by petite toasted crouton bites to dunk into the pool of sinful delight underneath each escargot ($26).

A Caesar salad followed, proving that even the simplest dishes can shine when executed properly ($25).

For mains, the Veal Chop was deeply flavorful embellished with seasonal mushrooms and creamed spinach, comforting in all the right ways along with a side of creamy mashed potatoes ($82).

The Branzino took a less traditional path, arriving atop a white bean stew with mussels, kale and fingerling potatoes that somehow managed to feel both inventive and perfectly balanced ($48).

Our accommodating server tempted us with dessert.

A decadent Chocolate Mousse with light, fluffy marshmellows, hazelnut ice cream, brownie pieces, together reminding us why restraint is overrated and elastic waistbands were invented ($17).

In an era when many restaurants seem determined to deconstruct everything, and eliminate bread, Fouquet’s embraces the radical notion that tradition and hospitality still matter.

Brasserie Fouquet’s New York  28 Desbrosses Street New York City. Open Sunday-Thursday 5-10pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11pm. Breakfast/Brunch Saturday 7:30am-3:30pm and Sunday 7:30am-2:30pm. Reservations on Resy.