Good things come in small packages.

Not a blue box from Tiffany, but a delicious new gem in SoHo from a lovely young couple who just opened their second restaurant.

The dream started with Kiko in Hudson Square.

Noury is their latest endeavor, located on Sullivan Street, part of a charming block in SoHo.

Some New York restaurants make you feel lucky they let you in. At Noury, I felt they were actually pleased I had booked.

Imagine that. Hospitality in the hospitality business.

This modern Japanese izakaya comes from Lina Goujjane and her husband, chef Alex Chang. I met Lina, who was charming, the sort of person who reminds you how much an owner’s presence can shape an evening.

The menu is the kind of thing that rewards lingering. It moves comfortably between familiar izakaya pleasures and more thoughtful, polished dishes, with enough variety to make ordering feel like part of the evening rather than a logistical exercise.

There are small plates for sharing, richer bites that invite another drink, and lighter options to keep the table from becoming a full-scale food coma. In other words, it is a menu designed for conversation, curiosity, and the occasional, we should have ordered four of those.

That is how I felt about the Grilled Eel and Ankimo handroll ($15).

Our server, Dean, was equally delightful and wonderfully well informed. There’s a particular pleasure in being looked after by someone who knows what they are talking about without making you feel you should have studied before arriving. I came for a night out, not an oral examination.

Their guidance was especially useful with the menu, which is best approached with a little trust and a willingness to order beyond the obvious.

And the sake? Excellent. Emishiki Sensation was recommended. It was the sort that makes you wonder why you keep ordering the same predictable glass of white wine. Apparently, there is life beyond the traditional and I was prepared to investigate. It also happens to be a particularly good companion to the menu. Bright enough for delicate dishes, textured enough for the richer ones, and dangerously easy to keep pouring ($16/glass).

Let’s get down to business and take a deep dive into the food.

We arrived at 4:50, before the 5pm opening. We were dining early since we had a 7pm play.

It was fabulous to be the only occupants until 6pm when the restaurant filled up. We were treated to the details and spoke at length with the owner.

We kicked things off with the freshest Sashimi, including  stellar tuna ($28).

The Shira-ae Salad was outstanding, embellished with Figs, and Marcona Almonds. Shira is a traditional Japanese vegan dish made with creamy mashed tofu and toasted sesame dressing ($16).

The Torotaku made by combining rich, fatty tuna belly (toro) and crunchy, yellow pickled daikon radish, was amazing. I added the rich, creamy Hokkaido Uni ($25). The Torotaku was so delicious that you didn’t even need the Uni, but it was a real treat ($32).

The Ora King Salmon with house cured Ikura, ginger and Mitsuba was fabulous. The ikura added texture and flavor ($60).

Dessert was a real surprise. The Melon Parfait is made with the juicy, floral Zerbinati melon, sake lees mousse, melon sorbet, rice crackers, and tapioca. It creates a balance of sweet fruit, savory/salty notes, and crunchy textures ($20).

What stayed with me was the warmth. A charming owner, a server who brought both knowledge and personality to the table, a menu that made sharing feel natural, and something lovely in the glass. These shouldn’t be remarkable things, but in a city where dinner can feel like an audition for a cooler life, they count.

The only concern was price point. Eating out is very expensive these days and if you want to sample all the delectable goodies on the menu, it does add up, although the quality is outstanding.

Noury gave me something I particularly appreciate these days, an evening with very little to complain about.

In the intimate 39-seater I sat next to a table of lovely women. In fact, I discovered that one of them is besties with my cousin…small world.

Noury 137 Sullivan Street, New York City  Open Sunday 5-9:30pm, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday 5-10pm, Thursday, Friday, Saturday 5-10:30pm. Reservations on Resy.