On a recent gorgeous summer evening I decided to declare the kitchen closed.

It was a perfect night to dine by the water.

The dilemma now was to find an appealing restaurant in Suffolk County. Some places in the Hamptons are good, but the traffic is as much fun as a root canal without novocaine..

I had heard about The Oar Seafood and Steak Grille.

It was on the water, 10 minutes from the house and if all else fails they serve oysters and a burger.

Off we went. There is free valet parking and a cute white building with deck dining overlooking the Patchogue River and the expansive marina.

Technically, it is a waterfront view. Although, to be fair, it is less sweeping maritime vista and more parking lot for large boats, but the sky was beautiful and the water did sparkle.

Our server, Alex, was attentive. We immediately ordered cocktails and drank in the lovely evening (Blue moon $8, Aperol Spritz $16).

We started with a half dozen local Blue Point oysters which were creamy and delicious ($18).

We were seated in a picket fenced in area so for the first half hour we were unencumbered by the human race.

Soon the peace was disrupted by a woman of unknown age (anywhere from 60 to 75) who in a booming Rose all day voice waxed poetic about her high school dating  life and her adventures from the waist down. This was embellished by the slow death of her bestie in North Carolina who died after she drove down to visit.  I think the friend pasted away from boredom and the sound of her friend’s voice which was, sadly, the last voice this woman ever heard.

Getting back to the food and ambiance.

The warm rolls and EVOO were tasty, a precursor to a hopefully delicious meal.

I was enamored with the 1 1/4 pound Maine lobster which could be grilled rather than steamed. It came with a perfectly sauteed vegetable medley and delectable sushi rice. The lobster was sweet and meaty. I thoroughly enjoyed all the cracking and digging ($42).

My husband selected the seared Yellowfin Tuna with fabulous sushi grade rice, ginger and diced cucumber, a delectable summer dish ($38).

We passed on the tempting homemade Bread Pudding because, frankly, I could not stand the bellowing voice from the other table.

There’s something about sitting near water with a cocktail that makes everything feel slightly more glamorous.

The Oar has been around forever, which in restaurant years is roughly equivalent to surviving several wars and at least one Kardashian marriage.

There is a reason. It knows exactly what it is.

The menu is classic steak-and-seafood territory with oysters, clams, shrimp, lobster, fish and serious pieces of beef.

I do not need foam. I do not need anything deconstructed and I definitely do not need a waiter explaining the chef’s emotional relationship with a carrot.

Give me good seafood, a cocktail and a table by the water.

The atmosphere is relaxed, the service friendly, and the whole experience feels quintessentially Long Island summer. Boats pull in and out, people wander along the dock, drinks arrive.

Is every dish going to change your life? Probably not.

But that isn’t really the point of The Oar.

I do not think I would ever choose to dine inside. There are a choice of rooms and a bar area.

At The Oar it is about sitting outside on a beautiful evening, eating seafood, drinking something cold and watching a marina full of boats you don’t have to insure, maintain or winterize.

The Oar Steak and Seafood Grille  264 West Avenue Patchogue, New York. Open Sunday-Thursday 11:30am-9:30pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30am-10pm. Reservations on OpenTable.com. Free Valet Parking.