Every so often, a new restaurant reminds you why eating out can still be exciting.

Somssi, which opened in June in Greenwich Village, is one of those places.

Somssi is the debut restaurant from Ahris Kim, formerly director of operations for the acclaimed team behind Atomix, Atoboy and NARO. She partnered with Ellia and Junghyun “JP” Park, but Somssi feels distinctly her own…less formal, more personal and considerably more relaxed.

The name Somssi is Korean for the kind of skill or craftsmanship developed through time, instinct and experience. That philosophy runs through the restaurant.

The room feels collected rather than decorated with exposed brick, deep greens, vintage paintings and glassware, lace and crochet curtains, natural wood and even old Bundt pans turned into sconces.

Kim enlisted childhood friend and vintage specialist Margaret Muza to help create a space intended to feel a little like a quirky aunt’s home. It’s warm, intimate and refreshingly free of the feeling that it was engineered for Instagram.

Then there is the food.

Calling Somssi simply Korean misses the point. The kitchen moves confidently between Korean and broader Asian flavors, European technique dictated by German chef, Daniel Gronert, along with New York nostalgia.

We commenced the food frenzy with a delicious Fennel and Meyer Lemon salad with tangy buttermilk dressing, ricotta salata and fried capers. Do not pass on this salad ($19).

The outstanding Potato, Potato, Potato and Caviar transforms pomme purée, potato starch and crisp potato strings into something simultaneously sophisticated and comforting. The caviar adds a touch of brilliance. This is possibly the most deliciously creative dish to hit menus in quite a while. It certainly beats out cream cheese croutons ($32).

The Bluefin Tuna Crudo dressed in anchovy soy with freshly crushed peas and goat curd was moist, flavorful and tender. The combination of the fish with cheese and peas is magnificent. The ever popular Tuna Crudo can be quite pedestrian. This dish was perfection ($25).

The divine Mushrooms with Curry Rice and Fried Egg was unbelievably flavorful and I am not a fan of egg yolk ($23).

The Crispy Fries with gamtae furikake and/or kimchi cheese seasoning were presented in a paper bag with the two sauces…pour the sauces one at a time in to the bag, shake vigorously and voila, colorful and uniquely delicious fries ($13).

The Branzino with the skin on, Nước Mắm and ginger was tender and flavorful ($36).

The desserts, including Nutmeg Tart, Orange Chantilly ($14) and White Rabbit Ice Cream, 5-Spice Peanuts ($10) were a gifted surprise and they did not disappoint.

Other memorable items on the menu are Linguine Al Ragù With Mustard Kimchi, grilled Ox Tongue and Somssi Mutton Chop. They show just how free and successful the kitchen crosses culinary borders.

What really makes Somssi work is that all this creativity comes without pretension.

The staff is charming, knowledgeable and genuinely engaged as is evidenced by the whimsical host.

Head sommelier Jenny Eagleton oversees an imaginative wine, sake and beverage program and guides you toward the interesting labels. The bottle of Chiyo Shuzo Shinomine Kimoto Nama Genshu sake which is unpasteurized, undiluted Japanese rice wine was extraordinary, both bold and rich ($70).

Somssi has some serious fine-dining DNA, but someone wisely loosened the tie and upped the intrigue.

Relaxed, imaginative and deeply hospitable led by Brandon, Somssi’s dynamic manager, Somssi is one of the most interesting new Manhattan restaurants of 2026 and, better still, one you will actually want to return to.

Somssi 79 MacDougal Street New York. Open Tuesday-Thursday 5-10pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:30pm. Reservations on Resy.